Still in Buenos Aires?

Many of you have asked me within the past couple of weeks "Are you seriously still in Buenos Aires"? I managed to get a bit off budget and instead of heading to the Mendoza or Salta I needed to stay put, make my meals, and try my very best not to spend any money. It was worth it, though, as I had a blast with Laura and we got to see some amazing things while she was here and hopefully I will be on track for Costa Rica and getting home for Christmas.

One thing I've noticed about travel -  and solo travel, in particular - is that the highs are extremely high and the lows are so, very, low. There seems to be little to no in between point which is difficult for me to deal with because in my regular life at home things are pretty consistent and my moods refect my lifestyle. Buenos Aires for me, was a very low point. After Laura left I heard some bad news at home and it was really hard to deal with by myself and be so far away from my family. Two days later, I was ripped off by a cab driver (he managed to scam 40 bucks off of me by claiming that my friend and I had fake bills - common in Argentina - when he really switched the cash quickly and gave us the fake bills, taking our real ones and leaving us 80 bucks in the whole). Then it was Thanksgiving and I found myself without any friends, alone, in a place where quite frankly I didn't want to be.

Don't get me wrong, as many of you have read, my highs have been phenomenal. But there does come a time when things get very rough. And, I don't want to discourage anyone from visiting B.A. though - come! It is a beautiful city! So folks, it's time I move on from South America. I will miss so much of it, but probably not Buenos Aires, anytime soon.

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

Day trip to Uruguay! Laura and I woke up early to head off to Uruguay - Colonia del Sacramento to be exact. We took the earliest ferry from Buenos Aires and was there in only a hour. Believe it or not there is a time difference for such a short trip and at first we were bummed that we would miss an hour out of our day trip until we got there and realized there was nothing open. We were starving and couldn't find a restuarant open and serving at 12:30 in the afternoon.

My camera died after 5 minutes of arriving in Uruguay but Laura manged to take a ton of shots that day. (Thanks, Laura!!) As you can see in the pictures, Colonia was absolutely beautiful. After a jam packed few days of sight seeing in BA, it was great to relax and wander around the tiny little town. In sum, the Uruguay trip was very chill and hopefully we can head back some day.

Laura's trip was winding down so we headed back to Buenos Aires for a few more days of exploring the city. I already miss her! Next entry will be life post Laura and back to the grind of solo travel.

Back in the B to the A

Laura and I hit the ground running as soon we returned from our last 20 plus hour bus ride from Iguasu. It was time to take on the city and see what all the hype was about . . . the hostel we stayed at was just okay but the neighborhood, San Telmo was really really great.

Each corner in Buenos Aires feels like a different European city. One block feels like Italy, the other like France and then the next feels like Spain. Argentinian Spanish sounds Italian and people speak with their whole bodies here.

Laura wanted to take advantage of seeing the city and we covered the big neigborhoods. Our big night out included taking a tango class and then seeing a show. Tango is bomb. Yes, it's touristy, yes it's a cliche to say you did tango in BA but believe me people, it's one cool dance. Here are some pictures from that evening:

We also had the opportunity to check out La Boca, a neighborhood that hosts the beloved Boca Juniors. It's incredibly colorful and a bit touristy (or where we ventured as we met about 3 travellers who had already been ripped off in La Boca). We had lunch and (surprise!) watched some tango. I loved this old dude who was singing:

After a few more days Laura and I were ready for a new country. Next up - Uruguay. 

Iguasu Falls, Argentina

I hadn't heard of Iguasu Falls before doing my research of South America. I'm a huge waterfalls fan but had no idea one of the largest falls in the world sits on the border of Argentina and Brazil. The trip from Buenos Aires to Iguasu is nearly 20 hours and I thought I would have build an argument so that I could convince Laura to take yet another long bus trip through Argentina. But after doing even your most basic google search you will find Iguasu to be incredibly impressive. She was game and so we booked a trip on our first day in BA.

It's rare to have a 100 percent positive response rate to nearly any location when talking to other travelers (well except for Machu Picchu and a few other biggies) but if you even mention Iguasu Falls to anyone who's been there will be an overwhelming response. They'll say ''Oh, yeah, you have to go there'' or the Irish will say ''It's grand! Incredible''. From now on I too will be that enthusiastic about these waterfalls. (Check out the double rainbow!)

We took a tour from start to finish in Iguasu (because of the death bus woes) and it was worth it. We took a boat tour that drove us almost into the falls. After a couple of days in Iguasu enjoying the heat we are back to BA! Now just one more 20 hour bus ride . . .

Lima and Peru Debrief

After another 22 hour bus ride Laura and I arrived in Lima. We were exhausted from Cusco, Machu Picchu and the travel but managed to see some of the sights.

It was nice to see the city center as my first time I was there I really just stayed around Miraflores (a suburb). We took a tour of the catacombs which was really awesome and not as scary of an experience as seeing the catacombs in Paris (if you don't like tight stairwells I don't recommend the Parisian catacombs). The main square's buildings are almost completly yellow which was very very cool. I wish we could say we really took in the city but it's huge so we really only had time for a few attractions.

After a day of sightseeing it was time to pack our bags once more and head to Buenos Aires. Peru was one of my favorite countries I've ever visited. After almost two full days of traveling on buses within Peru I feel comfortable saying that the country is absolutely beautiful.

I've also held back in this blog to comment on my obsession with Peruvian children because of the judgement but will now express how much I love them. I tried so hard not to be objectifying and really didn't want to come out and say it but they are the happiest cutest kids you'll ever see. Kids in Peru are everywhere - with their parents at work or on the streets hanging out with their friends. They are always playing and laughing. So there it is folks, my two highlights in Peru - Machu Picchu and the kiddies.

MACHU PICCHU

Many people think once you're in Cusco, you've essentially made it to Machu Picchu. Laura and I shopped up and down for the right tour, how we'd get to there the fastest, see the most, etc. We knew the Inca trail was out of the picture because we were flying out from Lima on the 9th and it only gave us 5 days in Cusco for Laura to acclimate and for us to see the town and Machu Picchu. We chose a two day tour that would allow us to get into Aguas Calientes the night before so that we could leave at 4 in the morning. We we confident we picked the best way to get to Machu Picchu and we would take the bus so we could see all the sights on the way. BAD BAD BAD mistake. The proposed 4 hour bus ride was actually 8, and it was on some of the most dangerous roads I've ever been on. Sixteen of us were packed in a 10 passenger van and Laura and I sat infront next to the driver so every time he shifted we were elbowed in the ribs.

Despite the death bus, our lovely Italian friends sitting in the back named our trip, we arrived in Aguas Calientes and celebrated with a beer in the hot springs. It was a tourist trap but we didn't care - the beer was cold and we were safe.

It's hard to describe Machu Picchu - so I'm not going to try. If you every have the opportunity in your lifetime do all you can do see it - well, don't take the death bus, take the train. Seeing Machu Picchu, regardless of how cliche it may be to say, is an absolutely incredible experience. Already, it is a highlight and I'm only a month in. We decided to climb Waynapicchu - the huge mountain in the back that you always see. It was a hard one hour hike but very well worth it. Most of the pictures that are up high were taken there and the sun came out at just the right time for us. I have great video that I will update at some point as well but in the meantime, enjoy the pics.

Next up, Peru/Lima debrief!

Much love,

Me

Cusco, Peru

It's been a very long time since I last contributed to the blog. I blame it all on Laura. Since I wrote last I took a 22 hour bus ride to Cusco from Lima. To most, that sounds absolutely ridiculous. Why would it take so long since the flight from Lima to Cusco is only an hour? Well, most of the trip includes the bus climbing up and down the mountainside. Buses in South America are the way to travel and usually have a cama class that allow you to recline almost completely. They feed you and play about a million movies, since being in South America I've seen Jennifer Lopez's The Backup Plan 4 times. It sucks, by the way.

Cusco is amazing. The city is higher than Machu Picchu itself and is absolutely gorgeous. It's not as busy as Lima and is much much smaller. I dig the city. Easy to get around, nice people and great weather. It was in the 70s or 80s most days if the sun was out. I arrived a bit early and hung around with a Scotish couple I met in Lima for a few days before halloween. You can see Sam and Fraser and I playing darts below Fraser just one and is very happy about me taking a million pictures:

That night we stepped outside to see some kind of celebration with fireworks and music. The square was packed with people, still not quite sure why. What was incredible impressive was the wood mechinisms they built to launch the fireworks. We saw people constructing during the day but I figured it was some art instillation or something. Turns out they actually light the fireworks from this cool structure!

Cusco was excellent but there was one last, very obvious thing to do . . . Next post will detail Laura and my voyage to Machu Picchu via the DEATH BUS.

Much love,

Me