Friday, April 29, 2011

Jeju Island, South Korea

I had plenty of time to explore South Korea and decided to hop on a quick (and cheap) flight to Jeju Island which is an island just south of the mainland. I thankfully arranged to stay at a hostel which provided a free airport pickup because the island is huge! It also seems that they aren't used to too many non Korean speakers because I couldn't seem to communicate with anyone outside my hostel. 

The island is absolutely beautiful. It's rocky and mountainous. Unfortunately the weather wasn't good enough for the 11 hour hike up Mount Halla but it was good enough to explore a bit. Check it out: 


 I have no idea who this lady is - she just jumped infront of the shot:








I had a great time in Jeju and if it were a little warmer I could have stayed for much longer. Jeju was also the spot of yet another small world story. While I was in Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) about three months ago I randomly met 2 guys (traveling separately) from New Hampshire. One of them, Glenn, was on a short vacation but teaching English in South Korea on Jeju Island. I actually left Kuala Lumpur without exchanging information with Glenn and just figured our paths wouldn't cross again. Then, two months later I was sitting in an internet cafe in Thailand with my friend Adam when I saw a notification from facebook. I had written on a hostel wall (the hostel wanted the guests to write on the wall, no worries) and was unfortunately tagged because of a grammatical error. I started laughing hysterically - enough to grab Adam's attention. Eventually he made me tell him the story of why I was laughing so hard. I showed him the picture of my grammatical error and of Glenn's writing next to mine, clearly fixing the mistake. Adam then said, "Glenn? Glenn from New Hampshire? I know that dude. I met him in Seoul like 5 months ago!" Turns out, yes, it was the same Glenn. And, yes, they had met when Adam started his trip in South Korea. Adam was friends with Glenn on facebook so I immediately friended him myself. Fast forward a couple months and I caught up with Glenn in Jeju Island, South Korea. Even though I was over an hour late to meet Glenn because I got terribly lost he was still kind enough to take me for a ride on his motorcyle around the island a bit and take me out to dinner. Glenn is one great guy and incredibly nice to deal with my inability to navigate Jeju Island. Gotta love those New Hampshire dudes. Anyway, it's one hell of small world story and I hope to run into him again some time soon. 

It's about that time to move on again! South Korea was amazing and now I know why all my friends have taught English here and called it home for a couple of years. It's been real, Asia. Now time for Europe. 


Sunday, April 24, 2011

I'm in South Korea!


I haven't posted in a while because a lot of my time in South Korea has been very chill. I arrived in Seoul and it was just as cold, if not colder than Hong Kong. Ouch. My first night I met a cool Australian girl and we headed out to eat in Hondae (fun, young, going out area in Seoul). I quickly realized it would be a challenge to get around without someone who could speak or read Korean. We ordered dinner correctly but seemed to have ordered the wrong size beer. I figured the largest size on the menu was a pitcher but boy, was I wrong. The waiter brought over the biggest pitcher I've seen which of course grabbed the attention of a group of men sitting near us. They asked if they could join us and we talked throughout dinner about the regular topics (Bush, politics, we do this here, do you do that there, etc). When we were ready to leave the guys paid for our dinner. Normally, I'd be opposed but since I'm a broke backpacker I gladly accepted.

After a quick few days in Seoul I headed south to Daegu (read previous post for train ride story) and met up with my friend Alex. We worked together for a couple years and she and her best friend decided to move to SK to teach English this past summer. Daegu was a very cool city, surrounded my mountains and was much warmer than Seoul. Alex seems settled and happy and I'm so proud of her for moving away from home to take on a year (or two) of teaching in another country. She showed me around and it was great to catch up with her and meet her friends in Daegu.

Check out the beautiful cherry blossoms!



After 10 days in Daegu it was time to move on to another city. Next stop: Jeju Island

Friday, April 15, 2011

The Woes of Solo (woman) Travel

Most of the time, I love being "in transit" by myself. Taking the subway, train, bus, a flight, whatever to get from one place to the next is nice for me. I enjoy the quiet and being by myself because it, strangely, makes me feel less anxious. The major downside to traveling by myself, however, is the overwhelming number of creepy men that see me being by myself as an invitation to come and talk to me. I suppose I'm not expressing my happiness properly because I am almost always approached by someone who desperately needs to talk to someone. It's an ongoing joke with my family and friends that without a doubt some weirdo dude will try to talk to me and I'll have a funny story once I've arrived at my destination.

At first, I was sympathetic, "Oh, this person just needs someone to talk to, they must be so lonely" or "Maybe they are just feeling bad for me - that I'm not with someone". But now, I have no issues expressing my annoyance with creepy dude encounters so if you are sympathizer, read no further. I had a distinct turning point when I was 19 listening to a dude on the train from Boston, MA to Exeter, NH talk about all his guns he owned and he pulled out a magazine to show them all to me. He departed by giving me a wink and his number. So now, I don't care how mean it sounds, if I'm giving clear signals that I don't want to talk to someone, they should pick it up. Plus, women get into sketchy situations all the time for being too nice and it's not okay.

As you may have guessed already, a particular encounter inspired this post (and rant) about creepy men that single out the woman traveler. I was taking the train from Seoul to Daegu in Korea on my way to visit my friend Alex who is an English teacher. I was an hour into the ride, loving the view and the sun hitting the mountains around me. I felt a bit sleepy and dosed off for a little bit only to be woken up by someone who seemed to have jumped on the seat next to mine.

"Nice to mee you." he said while shoving his hand into my space.

"Huh?" I hadn't shaken someones hand in a few months and couldn't understand his accent.

"Nice to meet you."

"Oh, yeah, you too" I responded back and instantly went back to closing my eyes. I was in mid snooze and expected to fall back asleep.

"My name is _______." Actually, I didn't get his name because I was too preoccupied with the stale smell of cigarettes that made me incredibly nauseous. I was trapped in and couldn't escape the smell from my window seat. My only saving grace was my big backpack that was separating the two seats.

"This is the stadium, do you know how to say stadium in Korean?"

"No." This time, my look was clearly uninviting. Not taking my hint he starts to say the word in Korean and has me repeat it. I knew I wasn't getting out of this so I got out my book and started to read. I opened it up, this time leaning toward the window to make my intentions crystal clear. I wish I could make this next part up but the dude crosses my backpack barrier and starts reading my book out loud, in English. This was the definite "oh shit" moment for me. It just couldn't get worse, but it did.

He then decides to bring up a whole host of subjects that a person wouldn't want to talk about: world trade center, terrorism attacks, etc.

"You are very handsome." Crap, crap, crap! I was trying to think of a way to get out but with my bags and being in the window seat I just couldn't easily make the transition.

I was hoping, wishing, praying that he was just the average-creepy-dude but his last comment upped his status to super-creepy-dude-who-wants-me-to-be-his-girlfriend.

And he still keeps on talking to me even though I had, at this point, given up on looking at him altogether. Every minute or so he pauses, looks at me, and comments on how much he likes me. Finally, they guy sticks out his hand and tells me that he's leaving, that the next stop is his.

I put out my hand, because, well, I was so happy he was leaving. Then he takes my hand and wouldn't let it go, pulling it closer to him.

"Let go!" I said perhaps a bit too loud. Then, he just sits there repeating over and over again how much he likes me.

"You are very beautiful." Then the train stops. Thank you, thank you, thank you. He looks at me once again, comments on my body or something wildly creepy and then proceeds to (try) to grab my butt. He wasn't that successful (as I was sitting down) and probably only grazed my lower back but it didn't matter to me. This simple action put me over the edge.

My friend Alex told me a story about how a drunk man was harassing every one on the train once from a trip in South Korea and how the staff came and were overly polite to the dude. Since he was their elder, they had to be respectful, even though the man had started a physical fight with some of the passengers. They simple just said, "Uncle, uncle, please take your seat".

I didn't have the same response as the staff on that train. Instead, I yelled down the aisle, "Fuck you, you asshole!" So much for respecting cultural norms . . .



1. Don't be nice. I'm not kidding. If you have a feeling that a guy is going to be a creep tell him that you don't want to talk to him.

2. Walk away. I know this is difficult in many buses, flights, trains, etc but that was my problem in this scenario. I should have simply changed seats no matter how much of a scene it would have caused.

3. Always have an ipod readily available and charged. I was cursing myself for exhausting all the battery power of mine on playing angry birds an hour earlier.

Don't get me wrong, the creepy dude doesn't just exist in one city, country, part of the world or whatever. Creepy men are of every race, body type and age. This particular story occurred in South Korea but I have a many more like it from almost every place I've visited.

I'm going to adhere to the rules outlined above and listen to my own advice as I move forward on my trip. After all, I have plenty more trains and buses to take . . .

Monday, April 4, 2011

Hong Kong with one of my favorites!

Mandy So is one of my favorite people ever. I came to Hong Kong and booked a hostel for far too much money - $22 USD a night which is way off budget for me. It seems that accomidation is very expensive in Hong Kong so I booked one of the cheapest places I could find that didn't have terrible reviews. It turns out the hostel was okay but in a very very sketchy building. While entering the Chung King Mansion I was staight up hasseled by a ton of dudes standing outside. I had to tell them to leave me alone at least 4 times so that I could find the elevator. I finally gave them my NYC stare and they backed off.

The room was clean and the staff were nice but when I told Mandy, a friend and coworker from college where I was staying she insisted that I leave. Aparently there was a Canadian girl who went missing there a while back and she and her family prefered I stay at their apartment. I happily took up their offer (mostly because I kept on thinking how terrifying it would be if there was a fire in the building and I was on the 13th floor) and packed up my stuff and left.

Mandy hosted me the entire time and took me all over the city. I came to really like Hong Kong because of the delicious food and the enormity of the city. It was also shocking how green it could become if you just drove a little farther north. I  loved getting to know Mandy and her life in Hong Kong. Her family was so nice to me and took me out to dim sum and treated me like they had known for a long time. I was constantly commenting on the fact that I loved seeing Mandy's life in action, speaking Cantonese, her parents small obsession with Chinese Opera, and going out to dinner and hearing and seeing all the small rituals in every day life. I got to meet her parents, brother, sister in law, grandmother and boyfriend (a keeper because he's a super nice guy and likes the sox) all in one visit. I often am staying at hostels and meeting up with other westerners and never feeling like I got the sense of the city but Hong Kong was different. 

A few Hong Kong highlights:

- Riding the tram to The Peaks and checking out the view of the entire city:


- Going to the Peninsula Hotel for high tea


- Beautiful, incense-filled temples!


- The Hong Kong Museum of History


- And catching up with Mandy in her city


You all will be happy to know that 2 days after I left Hong Kong Mandy messaged me to let me know that there was fire in the hostel that I stayed at and the entire building was evacuated. Whew. I would have been terrified. What are the chances that I would escape another near death experience?

Check out a few more pictures from Hong Kong:






It's time to move on once again. The initial plan was to stay in Hong Kong and head into China but since I spent some extra time in Thailand and the Chinese visa cost a bit of money I decided to skip China altogether and save it for another trip. I'm on to South Korea now and catching up with some more friends living abroad.