Bad Country, Part Dos and Back to Nosara

Little point of clarification: Mal Pais means Bad Country. Many were confused, sorry, I meant to integrate the translation in the last post! (BTW the picture above is the view from our hotel on the beach, hollar).

So, Phil arrived in Mal Pais safe and sound and E.J. and I were happy to introduce him to the tranquillo attitude of CR and the beach. Most of the time we spent was watching the sun set or chillin with cutie dogs around town. The boys took to surfing a bit but I mostly just sat on the beach. I wish there was more to report but, really, we didn't do much! Our one activity was to find the Montezuma waterfalls. After a beautiful drive and a short hike we found the first of three waterfalls. I kind of freaked out about the hike (which, in my defense was a bit insane to do in wet flip flops) and talked the guys into throwing in the towel and we stumbled apon a deserted strip of beach and jumped in. Check out the pics that E.J. took of our trip!

Waterfall:

Our own private swimming spot, this was Phil's happy place:

This is my happy place:

The cousins are awesome and it was great to chill with them for a bit before heading back to Nosara. If you have the chance, check out E.J.'s pics on my picasa album: http://picasaweb.google.com/mahureau/MalPaisCostaRica#

My trip back to Nosara was simple and easy and I managed to stay in a hostel there for a few nights before crashing again with Sarah and a couple of her friends. They were so nice to host me (again) and all three have amazing energy and are doing great work at the Nosara Yoga Institute. I loved them so much that I took pictures of them being awesome on the beach:

It's time to move on from Costa Rica and go home for a couple weeks. My stop in CR was an amazing one and I definitely needed it after South America. I am so thankful for reuniting with family and friends and meeting new, great people. On my last full day in CR, Fred (pictured above) taught yoga on the beach at sunrise. It was my first offical yoga class and I was terrified but there were many perfect things about the experience. He first asked us to write a word in the sand and I of course chose "courage" because of the moment but also for the first half of my trip. He then asked those people to reflect on their training experience and I traced my steps to arriving there. Most of the work we did was partner based and Sarah and I did it together and then we jumped into the ocean. In so many ways it summed up my first leg of traveling. I couldn't be more ready to go back to NH with the family for a couple of weeks.



Bad Country with the Cousins Part 1

It was time for a little cousins retreat. E.J. was to rent a car and meet me in Tamarindo before heading off to the other end of the Nicoya peninsula. He was down to surf and I'm always down to beach so we made a good team. After a couple nights in Tamarindo we took to the road. The hours flew by because the views were spectacular. I had cruised around CR before but this was my first real exploration of the peninsula and it was amazing. Here are a few shots from the drive and our sweet ride:

E.J. and I had one night to kill in Mal Pais before we picked up Phil the next day and chose to stay at a sweet cabina in the middle of the jungle. At night all we could hear was the ocean and birds and in the morning, monkeys. E.J.'s insight was all the sounds we heard are what make up sound machines. Jungle, rainforest, ocean, etc. I didn't get a shot that would do the place justice but I tried my best:

Notice the computer in both shots - I made E.J. watch a movie because I hadn't been able to watch T.V. or movies in a loooong time. We had a very chill few days filled with beach and long beautiful rides and some quality cousin time.

Next up, another cousin comes to visit and a million pictures of sunsets.

Sarah and I find the beach

One of my oldest and closest friends, Sarah, and I were to meet in Costa Rica and travel a bit together for a few days before she was heading to the beach and second home, Nosara, to teach a yoga workshop. Since I had been to CR a bunch of times I was excited to show Sarah the non beachy parts of the country, the volcanos and rainforests and she in turn would show me Nosara a yogi and surfer haven that she had been visiting for 7 years. Needless to say our plan didn't work out exactly how we wanted it to . . . we arrived in Monteverde late in the afternoon and woke up the next morning to insane amounts of rain. Downpour. In fact, it was difficult for us to even venture outside to the supermarket. We decided that we would skip Arenal, La Fortuna and the volcano and head to the beach and nice weather.

It worked! Our 4 hour bus ride took the clouds away and we arrived in Nosara and the sun was shinning. Because were a day early we needed a place to crash for a night and Sarah´s friends were wrapping up their one month yoga teachers training. The two couples were incredibly nice and took care of Sarah and me like we were part of their family. I am overwhelmed with gratitude when I think of them and their kindness. They even sponsored me for a day and I splurged and bought a smoothie and stayed in a nice hotel in Mal Pais a few days later. They were all wonderful people who were at such an interesting place and I feel so lucky to have met them.

Sarah had a few days before she was scheduled to start her yoga training and took me to a graduation of the previous class. It was great to see this kind of subculture and I´m so happy to have experienced it with Sarah and got to know a different part of her life. Here is a picture of us post celebration:

Oh yeah, and I forgot to mention the ridiculously beautiful beaches here . . . we spent plenty of time relaxing and checking out the sunsets. Sarah´s two friends from college who were teaching English nearby came and visited on one of their last weekends in CR. We all chilled out for a day and they brought me back to their place for the night and took me in until I was to meet my cousin, E.J., in Tamarindo. Again I was fortunate enough to meet such incredible people who were so kind to take care of me! Kelsey and Mike are traveling for the next 6 months or so and have great karma coming their way.

As you can see from my previous posts, Argentina wasn´t the best time for me. It´s great to know that when you need something, it will come to you. I needed friends, people I was comfortable with, and kindness and I got all of it within a matter of a few days. 

Below are so pictures of the beach and Nosara. As always, feel free to check out all my picasa albums at   http://picasaweb.google.com/mahureau/NosaraCostaRica#

Beach cooler:

 View from a house Sarah and her friends rented for the weekend:

Next stop: cousins retreat with Phil and E.J.

Sad News from Home

I've been meaning to write this post for about a week and a half now and everytime I sit to do it I just can't find the words . . . but I have about two more hours until I jump into a taxi and head to Costa Rica and felt like I needed to post before leaving South America and Argentina, in particular.

Every traveller's number one worry is that they'll lose their passport, duh, it's pain in the butt and you can't leave the country you're in. Their number two worry is that they'll get a phone call or email from home that makes them feel like a world away from their family. Unfortunately, my mom emailed me a little over a week ago to let me know that my Uncle Peco (her brother) had passed away that morning. My friend Laura was, thankfully, still with me at the time so there was someone there to help me with my initial shock. Then I started to check flights online, find a way to get home so that I could be with everyone but soon came to realize it would be far too expensive and wouldn't even guarantee me arriving in time for the services.

In the past week or my family forward me some stories of my Uncle Peco and then my cousin Billy made an amazing blog to capture all of them and I was so happy that I've had the opportunity to read all of them, in full. Although it's different from the typical grieving process it seems to be working and I'm going to continue along those lines by sharing my two biggest appreciations of my Uncle Peco.


Many of you know that I think and talk in stories. I collect my stories and retell them constantly. I even have a place where I store all of my stories and rate them based on their category (my small world stories, my top ten stories of all time, my don't tell my parents stories, etc). I can spot a good story teller from a mile away based on the build up, character development and closing. I know that for a fact my Uncle Peco had something to do with my love and appreciation for good story. He was one of the world's best at telling, maybe even making up, and playing a part in a good story. Some stories he played the leading role. I can't tell you how many times I've sat around the dinner table and heard about Peco's crazy times at Villanova and some of the absolutely hilarious (and I would say brilliant) things he did growing up. Peco also had a knack for telling one heck of a story. His delivery was impecable. He was able to read his crowd and know whether it was time for a small anecdote or if people wanted to hear a full blown narrative including background, setting, etc. As the ringleader and one of the oldest in the family, there is no doubt in my mind that it was Peco that kept the storytelling tradition alive.

Another big thing I'll remember about my uncle is that he learned how to focus on the good things in life. He would light up when talking about both his grandkids and kids. I feel so fortunate to have spent time with my uncle at both of my siblings weddings this summer talking about how the grandkids were doing, how funny their personalities were, how they were doing in sports, etc. I know that it would have been easy for Peco not to focus on the good things in life, to be overcome with seeing people when they are not at their best. Instead, he chose to put his energy in the right place and, in my interpretation, value the right things. He managed to pass along this sentiment to all of his kids who carry out their love for their family everyday.

And while I sit and reflect, over 5000 miles away from many of my family and friends, those same two appreciation are what I'll take with me moving forward on my trip. First and foremost: life is an adventure and second: to focus on the good that's around you.

To making great stories and valuing the good in the world, Uncle Peco!

Much love,

Me

Still in Buenos Aires?

Many of you have asked me within the past couple of weeks "Are you seriously still in Buenos Aires"? I managed to get a bit off budget and instead of heading to the Mendoza or Salta I needed to stay put, make my meals, and try my very best not to spend any money. It was worth it, though, as I had a blast with Laura and we got to see some amazing things while she was here and hopefully I will be on track for Costa Rica and getting home for Christmas.

One thing I've noticed about travel -  and solo travel, in particular - is that the highs are extremely high and the lows are so, very, low. There seems to be little to no in between point which is difficult for me to deal with because in my regular life at home things are pretty consistent and my moods refect my lifestyle. Buenos Aires for me, was a very low point. After Laura left I heard some bad news at home and it was really hard to deal with by myself and be so far away from my family. Two days later, I was ripped off by a cab driver (he managed to scam 40 bucks off of me by claiming that my friend and I had fake bills - common in Argentina - when he really switched the cash quickly and gave us the fake bills, taking our real ones and leaving us 80 bucks in the whole). Then it was Thanksgiving and I found myself without any friends, alone, in a place where quite frankly I didn't want to be.

Don't get me wrong, as many of you have read, my highs have been phenomenal. But there does come a time when things get very rough. And, I don't want to discourage anyone from visiting B.A. though - come! It is a beautiful city! So folks, it's time I move on from South America. I will miss so much of it, but probably not Buenos Aires, anytime soon.

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

Day trip to Uruguay! Laura and I woke up early to head off to Uruguay - Colonia del Sacramento to be exact. We took the earliest ferry from Buenos Aires and was there in only a hour. Believe it or not there is a time difference for such a short trip and at first we were bummed that we would miss an hour out of our day trip until we got there and realized there was nothing open. We were starving and couldn't find a restuarant open and serving at 12:30 in the afternoon.

My camera died after 5 minutes of arriving in Uruguay but Laura manged to take a ton of shots that day. (Thanks, Laura!!) As you can see in the pictures, Colonia was absolutely beautiful. After a jam packed few days of sight seeing in BA, it was great to relax and wander around the tiny little town. In sum, the Uruguay trip was very chill and hopefully we can head back some day.

Laura's trip was winding down so we headed back to Buenos Aires for a few more days of exploring the city. I already miss her! Next entry will be life post Laura and back to the grind of solo travel.

Back in the B to the A

Laura and I hit the ground running as soon we returned from our last 20 plus hour bus ride from Iguasu. It was time to take on the city and see what all the hype was about . . . the hostel we stayed at was just okay but the neighborhood, San Telmo was really really great.

Each corner in Buenos Aires feels like a different European city. One block feels like Italy, the other like France and then the next feels like Spain. Argentinian Spanish sounds Italian and people speak with their whole bodies here.

Laura wanted to take advantage of seeing the city and we covered the big neigborhoods. Our big night out included taking a tango class and then seeing a show. Tango is bomb. Yes, it's touristy, yes it's a cliche to say you did tango in BA but believe me people, it's one cool dance. Here are some pictures from that evening:

We also had the opportunity to check out La Boca, a neighborhood that hosts the beloved Boca Juniors. It's incredibly colorful and a bit touristy (or where we ventured as we met about 3 travellers who had already been ripped off in La Boca). We had lunch and (surprise!) watched some tango. I loved this old dude who was singing:

After a few more days Laura and I were ready for a new country. Next up - Uruguay. 

Iguasu Falls, Argentina

I hadn't heard of Iguasu Falls before doing my research of South America. I'm a huge waterfalls fan but had no idea one of the largest falls in the world sits on the border of Argentina and Brazil. The trip from Buenos Aires to Iguasu is nearly 20 hours and I thought I would have build an argument so that I could convince Laura to take yet another long bus trip through Argentina. But after doing even your most basic google search you will find Iguasu to be incredibly impressive. She was game and so we booked a trip on our first day in BA.

It's rare to have a 100 percent positive response rate to nearly any location when talking to other travelers (well except for Machu Picchu and a few other biggies) but if you even mention Iguasu Falls to anyone who's been there will be an overwhelming response. They'll say ''Oh, yeah, you have to go there'' or the Irish will say ''It's grand! Incredible''. From now on I too will be that enthusiastic about these waterfalls. (Check out the double rainbow!)

We took a tour from start to finish in Iguasu (because of the death bus woes) and it was worth it. We took a boat tour that drove us almost into the falls. After a couple of days in Iguasu enjoying the heat we are back to BA! Now just one more 20 hour bus ride . . .

Lima and Peru Debrief

After another 22 hour bus ride Laura and I arrived in Lima. We were exhausted from Cusco, Machu Picchu and the travel but managed to see some of the sights.

It was nice to see the city center as my first time I was there I really just stayed around Miraflores (a suburb). We took a tour of the catacombs which was really awesome and not as scary of an experience as seeing the catacombs in Paris (if you don't like tight stairwells I don't recommend the Parisian catacombs). The main square's buildings are almost completly yellow which was very very cool. I wish we could say we really took in the city but it's huge so we really only had time for a few attractions.

After a day of sightseeing it was time to pack our bags once more and head to Buenos Aires. Peru was one of my favorite countries I've ever visited. After almost two full days of traveling on buses within Peru I feel comfortable saying that the country is absolutely beautiful.

I've also held back in this blog to comment on my obsession with Peruvian children because of the judgement but will now express how much I love them. I tried so hard not to be objectifying and really didn't want to come out and say it but they are the happiest cutest kids you'll ever see. Kids in Peru are everywhere - with their parents at work or on the streets hanging out with their friends. They are always playing and laughing. So there it is folks, my two highlights in Peru - Machu Picchu and the kiddies.

MACHU PICCHU

Many people think once you're in Cusco, you've essentially made it to Machu Picchu. Laura and I shopped up and down for the right tour, how we'd get to there the fastest, see the most, etc. We knew the Inca trail was out of the picture because we were flying out from Lima on the 9th and it only gave us 5 days in Cusco for Laura to acclimate and for us to see the town and Machu Picchu. We chose a two day tour that would allow us to get into Aguas Calientes the night before so that we could leave at 4 in the morning. We we confident we picked the best way to get to Machu Picchu and we would take the bus so we could see all the sights on the way. BAD BAD BAD mistake. The proposed 4 hour bus ride was actually 8, and it was on some of the most dangerous roads I've ever been on. Sixteen of us were packed in a 10 passenger van and Laura and I sat infront next to the driver so every time he shifted we were elbowed in the ribs.

Despite the death bus, our lovely Italian friends sitting in the back named our trip, we arrived in Aguas Calientes and celebrated with a beer in the hot springs. It was a tourist trap but we didn't care - the beer was cold and we were safe.

It's hard to describe Machu Picchu - so I'm not going to try. If you every have the opportunity in your lifetime do all you can do see it - well, don't take the death bus, take the train. Seeing Machu Picchu, regardless of how cliche it may be to say, is an absolutely incredible experience. Already, it is a highlight and I'm only a month in. We decided to climb Waynapicchu - the huge mountain in the back that you always see. It was a hard one hour hike but very well worth it. Most of the pictures that are up high were taken there and the sun came out at just the right time for us. I have great video that I will update at some point as well but in the meantime, enjoy the pics.

Next up, Peru/Lima debrief!

Much love,

Me

Cusco, Peru

It's been a very long time since I last contributed to the blog. I blame it all on Laura. Since I wrote last I took a 22 hour bus ride to Cusco from Lima. To most, that sounds absolutely ridiculous. Why would it take so long since the flight from Lima to Cusco is only an hour? Well, most of the trip includes the bus climbing up and down the mountainside. Buses in South America are the way to travel and usually have a cama class that allow you to recline almost completely. They feed you and play about a million movies, since being in South America I've seen Jennifer Lopez's The Backup Plan 4 times. It sucks, by the way.

Cusco is amazing. The city is higher than Machu Picchu itself and is absolutely gorgeous. It's not as busy as Lima and is much much smaller. I dig the city. Easy to get around, nice people and great weather. It was in the 70s or 80s most days if the sun was out. I arrived a bit early and hung around with a Scotish couple I met in Lima for a few days before halloween. You can see Sam and Fraser and I playing darts below Fraser just one and is very happy about me taking a million pictures:

That night we stepped outside to see some kind of celebration with fireworks and music. The square was packed with people, still not quite sure why. What was incredible impressive was the wood mechinisms they built to launch the fireworks. We saw people constructing during the day but I figured it was some art instillation or something. Turns out they actually light the fireworks from this cool structure!

Cusco was excellent but there was one last, very obvious thing to do . . . Next post will detail Laura and my voyage to Machu Picchu via the DEATH BUS.

Much love,

Me